As it is annual quince-paste-making day in our household, I thought I'd re-heat an old post! Enjoy.
"QUINCE PASTE If the full flavour of the quinces be desired, stew them sufficiently tender to press through a sieve in the prepared juice of page 456; otherwise in just water enough to about three parts cover them; when they are soft quite through lift them out, let them cool and then pass them through a sieve; reduce them to a dry paste over a very clear fire and stir them constantly; then weigh the fruit and mix it with an equal proportion of pounded sugar or sugar boiled to candy height, we find the effect nearly the same whichever method be pursued and stir the paste without intermission until it is again so dry as to quit the pan and adhere to the spoon in one large ball; press it into shallow pans or dishes; cut it as soon as cold into small squares and should they seem to require it, dry them with a very gentle degree of heat, and when they are again cold store them in tin cases with well dried foolscap paper between them: the paste may be moulded when more convenient and kept until it is wanted for table in a very dry place. In France where the fruit is admirably confected the pate de coigns or quince paste is somewhat less boiled than we have directed and dried afterwards in the sun or in an extremely gentle oven in square tin frames about an inch and a half deep placed upon clean slates"
Modern cookery for private families reduced to a system of easy practice, in a series of carefully tested receipts, in which the principles of Baron Liebig and other eminent writers have been as much as possible applied and explained By Eliza Acton, Published by Longman, Green, Longman, Roberts, and Green, 1864 (via Google books)
There's been a lot of talk lately about eating local foods, and eating them seasonally. And when you do so, it creates a certain rhythm to the year: berry desserts in summer, root vegetable stews in winter, fresh shelled peas in spring.
However, the canny cook from before our time also knew that there was a rhythm to the pickling, bottling and preserving of these foods, which allowed variety on the dinner table all year round.
Tomato-sauce-making-day for instance, continues to be a tradition among some Italo-Australian families I know. Held towards the end of the summer when the tomatoes are cheap and plentiful, a day of chopping and boiling in the company of friends and family creates a store of pasta sauce to carry the family through the year ahead.
In my own family home, I remember the citrus season was marked by a day of chopping and peeling to make jars and jars of marmalade which would be consumed on toast throughout the year and also given as gifts to the less citricly-endowed (yes, I know citricly is not really a word...just indulge me.)
At this time of year in Southern Australia, the rhythm of seasonality dictates that it is quince paste making time.
This is the second year that I have made quince paste. Last year's didn't quite set like it should have, but I now have a legion of fans for my legendary "quince jam". In fact, one friend who I have given several containers to has begged that I make it in exactly the same way this year. If only it were that simple. She seems to think I have some control over the process!
Megan has already posted about her quince paste making experiences and I use the same basic recipe that she did.
One of the great delights of making quince-paste on a cold early winter's afternoon is that it gives you an excuse to loiter around the house. Oh no, I can't go out...I have to stir my quince paste. And the reward for judicious stirring is watching the fruit turn from a light flesh to a deep red colour. Made to perfection it should be as glossy and reflective as rubies.
There is a certain magic in turning a couple of kilos of furry fruit into a delicious dark treat to be enjoyed with cheese the year round, and given to friends as gifts.
What seasonal food preparation days mark your yearly calendar?
4 comments:
Pecan pies in the Fall and Boiled peanuts in the late Summer. I can remember my mother canning green beans, peas and making pickles in the late summer too. But I haven't gotten up the courage to try it myself.
None now mainly because of freezers and air freight and only a little jam, marmalade and Christmas cake making from childhood but I do remember egg preserving from then, too. Perhaps it was a left-over from W.W,2 although I remember it from afterwards. The eggs fresh and still in their shells were coated in a thick white paste to seal out the air which is what makes then go off before being packed away. I never knew what the white paste was and never though to ask. It was just something that we did like the dusting and I don't know how long they would keep for. Now I'm remembering that, of course, for the last 41 years we have gathered the apples in October from the trees in the garden, wrapped them in newspaper, packed them in cardboard boxes and stored them throughtout the winter previously in the cellar and now in the garage – now in wooden boxes as little creatures would get through the cardboard. Does that count? There's just enough left of the current lot for a pudding for Mof and Dof when they come on Sunday!
Glad the quince paste turned out successfully and look forward to sampling it!
Marmalade season is fast approaching hopefully not before the cast comes off the fractured ankle or the Dof will have a quick tutorial!
Nanu's apple crumble with the last of their apple harvest was scrumptuous.
Well worth using and preserving seasonal produce.
The return of this blog reminded me I was served up quince last year. A now favourite very traditonal Greek Island on the largely untouched Island of Amorgos (where they filmed much of Le Grande Blu or the Big Blue wioth Rosanna Arquette and Jean Reno) served it up stewed in the local liquor (also made by the erstaurant owners) with honey yoghurt. The restaurant is the antithesis of the usual topurist base things. An authentic family run affair that don't like tourists and the dessert on offer is what they give you (the quince was the only choice and is not charged for). Once they know you are interested in getting real local food prepared tradionally and prepared to give them adequate warning (24 hours) service and the quince were wonderful - not to mention the baked fish and 12 hours cooked lamb in ouzo (also home made).
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